Do Log Splitter Drill Bits Work? How to Use One Safely
By Laura Pemberton · Updated on 11 October 2026
Short answer: yes, a log splitter drill bit (also called a cone splitter or screw splitter) splits logs, as long as three things are right: a drill with enough torque, set to drill mode at a low speed; a log that is braced so it can't spin; and a start near the edge of the log rather than the dead centre. Most "it's a gimmick" reviews come down to one of those three, or to a cheap bit with the wrong thread.
How does a log splitter drill bit work?
It is a threaded steel cone that fits in your drill's chuck. As it turns, the thread pulls the cone into the wood, and the widening cone forces the fibres apart along the grain until the log splits. There is no swing and no blade: the drill does the work, and both your hands stay on the drill.
That is why people look for one. Splitting kindling with a hatchet is how a lot of fingers get hurt: "I've ended up in a&e before now trying to split kindling with an axe. Not to be recommended!" (BushcraftUK forum) [UK]. Others want to spare their arms and back: "A few years ago I got a tennis elbow injury from hand splitting logs" (PistonHeads) [UK].
Do they actually work? What UK users say
Opinion is split, and it helps to know why. The good reviews read like this: "This drill bit really does work. I split logs for use in my wood burner stove and this drill bit makes light work of splitting logs" (Amazon UK) [UK], or "Easy and safe to use. A much better alternative to an axe." (Amazon UK) [UK]. The bad ones mostly describe a log that spins, a drill that stalls, or a bit that just bores a hole.
Two experienced UK users explain the difference. On the drill: "Its the torque you need not rpms ... Anything less and it will stall on the first snotty log" (Arbtalk) [UK]. On the bit itself: "BEWARE when buying a cone splitter, they may look the same BUT the angle of the thread that screw into the wood are NOT" (Arbtalk) [UK]. A badly angled thread spins against the wood instead of biting into it.
What drill do you need?
| What to check | What to look for | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Power | A cordless drill of 18V or more, or a corded drill; a hammer drill with good torque is ideal | The cone needs torque, not speed |
| Chuck | A standard 10 mm or 13 mm chuck, or an SDS+ drill | The bit's shank has to fit |
| Setting | Drill mode, not a screwdriver clutch setting; low speed or first gear | The clutch slips, and high speed makes the drill stall |
| Side handle | Use it if your drill has one | Extra control when the cone bites |
These are the settings we recommend for the W70 PRO, and most cone splitters ask for something similar.
How do you use a log splitter drill bit safely?
- Fit the bit and check it is tight in the chuck.
- Set the drill to drill mode, at a low speed.
- Brace the log so it can't spin: against a wall, between two other logs, or in an old tyre.
- Dress for it. Wear gloves with a good grip and eye protection, and tuck away loose sleeves and drawstrings. The HSE warns that people are injured every year by becoming entangled in power machinery, and lists "Wearing loose clothing or trailing drawstrings" among the causes.
- Keep both hands on the drill.
- Start near the edge, not the dead centre, and let the thread pull the cone in rather than forcing it.
- Follow the split round to open bigger pieces into smaller ones.
- If the cone binds, put the drill in reverse to wind it back out.
How does it compare with an axe or a hydraulic splitter?
| Tool | Strengths | Limits |
|---|---|---|
| Axe or hatchet | Cheap, no power needed, quick in skilled hands | A swinging blade near your hands; tiring; the classic kindling injury |
| Splitting maul | Splits big rounds | Heavy, needs technique and space |
| Log splitter drill bit | No swing, no exposed blade, uses a drill you may already own, fits in a drawer | Needs a drill with torque and a braced log; it takes a few logs to get the feel |
| Hydraulic log splitter | Splits large volumes with little effort | Expensive, bulky, needs storage space |
If you split several cubic metres a year, a hydraulic splitter is the faster machine. For stove logs and kindling at home, the drill bit sits between the axe and the hydraulic splitter.
Why split your logs early?
Splitting isn't only about size. HETAS, the UK body for solid fuel heating, explains that splitting "increases the surface area and reduces the thickness of your logs, speeding up the drying process significantly".
Dry wood matters for your stove and for the air. DEFRA's advice is to make sure any wood you burn at home is dry, meaning "a moisture content of 20% or less", and to "Use a moisture meter to check that moisture levels are 20% or less before burning." Bought wood with the Ready to Burn logo already meets that. If you buy wood in larger volumes or source your own, DEFRA suggests you "Store it in a dry area, allowing the logs to air dry for at least 2 years before burning." Either way, split your logs early, stack them under cover and check them with a moisture meter before they go in the stove. Our winter checklist for your home, garden and car covers getting the stove itself ready.
What do you get with the W70 PRO?
The W70 PRO is our log splitter drill bit. The facts:
- One PowerCone™ cone, 32 mm, in titanium-coated high-strength steel
- 4 adapters: round, square, hex and SDS+, with 8 mm and 6.3 mm shanks for a standard 10 mm or 13 mm chuck
- Works on all types of wood: hardwood and softwood, seasoned or green, oak included
- A safety guide in every order, and a free pair of anti-slip gloves
- Lifetime Warranty with free replacement, and a 90-day money-back guarantee
Its limits, honestly: it needs a drill with real torque (18V or more), a braced log and a little practice before it feels natural. A small screwdriver drill isn't the right partner for it. You can find it on the W70 PRO page.
FAQ
Do log splitter drill bits work on hardwood?
The W70 PRO works on all types of wood, hardwood included. What matters most is your drill's torque, a braced log and a start near the edge.
Can I use a cordless drill?
Yes: 18V or more, in drill mode at a low speed. A drill that keeps stalling doesn't have enough torque.
Why does the log spin?
It isn't braced, or the cone went in dead centre. Brace it against something solid and start near the edge.
What if the cone gets stuck?
Put the drill in reverse and wind it back out. No wrench needed.
Is it safer than an axe?
There is no swing and no exposed blade near your hands, which removes the classic kindling injury. It is still a high-torque tool: brace the log, keep both hands on the drill and wear gloves.
About the author: Laura Pemberton writes the product copy and blog articles at Vauscher. She also works on product research, helping select the home, garden and DIY products in our range.